Slovakia 2006

I’ll begin packing tonight; mostly the simple stuff. The cds, some of the clothes, maybe start picking out a few books and other odds and ends. As is usual for a trip like this, I’m excited and a little nervous. What am I going to forget? Honestly, as long as I don’t forget something stupid like my passport, I’ll be fine. Most of all, I’m really looking forward to just relaxing. Bumming around Prague for a few weeks seems like a great idea, I have to say.

I’m ready to go. Now I just have to wait. The only real apprehension I have is that I don’t know what we’ll do in Germany. I hear it’s pretty boring and expensive in Frankfurt, so I’m cool with just drinking beers, relaxing and taking in the new scenery. Getting used to not being understood. Ugh. And taking lots of pictures.

 I can’t believe I’m doing this. And I can’t believe it’s already happening. Well, here goes!

This is a shot from the night the Oilers won the Conference Championship Trophy. Fun times were had on Jasper, rioting on Whyte.
Jasper Ave

Or here, or whatever. We landed this morning, did a bit of a walkabout around the river in Frankfurt (which is surprisingly pretty. Lots of trees… um… trees…). Stopped for an espresso in one spot, a pint and a snack in another, and then back for a nap to make at least a passing attempt at catching up on the sleep I didn’t get on the plane.

Now out again, possibly to grab a bottle of wine and wander around the river area. We’ll see.

Well, I think Simon and I escaped the jetlag even, we slept pretty well last night, and were up all day yesterday. Both of us are pretty impressed so far with Frankfurt (although I am having a hard time navigating this keyboard). It is quite a beautiful city with a very nice river valley and downtown area, which we are staying right in.

I tried Buffalo Mozzarella yesterday for lunch, as I was told it was the only way to eat mozzarella, and it was OK. Pretty much just like unripened cheese is supposed to taste, I think.

We were pretty impressed with our hotel (not hostel, like the advertisement led us to believe) so we asked to reserve for the 19th, and well, instead of costing 51€ like last night did, it will cost 189€. We declined. We just need a bed after all. So we will likely just rebook our flight for the next day, or if that’s not possible stay in a surrounding town. Apparently this world cup thing is a big deal. I’ll let Simon on for a while.

On a side note, it’s pretty cheap to go to an internet cafe here….

Char and I are sitting at the opera, enjoying the performance of Leonard Bernstein’s Candide. The set design is fantastic, all sorts of moving towers and walkways, the singing is wonderful, and I’m finding that I’m enjoying the music more than I expected to. Of course, the plot is making little to no sense, but as we’ll discover later, that’s not our fault, really. The plot does in fact make no sense.

There’s a relatively tender reunitement of Candide and Cunegonde, and on the screen behind them all of a sudden… something that looks tantalizingly like a bosom. Of course, it can’t be that. This is, after all, the opera. However, the bosom is followed by nude torsos… and then more than that. Of course later on there will be topless dancers, but at the moment this is all somewhat surprising. Opera in Canada has never been this… Risque.

 ***

We go for a walk away from the tourist area. Don’t get me wrong; the old city is quite lovely, but the crowds can be somewhat taxing over time. The goal is instead to see if I can find a pizza joint that dad and I had eaten at five years prior. After a lengthy walk along the river, we turn inland and amazingly enough, through a tangled warren of streets finaly set foot in front of Aldo’s Pizzaria.

 And yes, it is as good as last time.

So my bag, trailing behind us, has got an almost biblical knowledge of the streets of Brno before we finally arrive at our suite for the duration of our stay here. As for myself, I’ve been surviving on a pretty steady regimen of beer, espresso and fried cheese. My life will be shorter by the time this trip is over, but richer all the same.

Also, the two Canadian ladies we sort of toured around last night were quite pleasant. I think we ended up showing them a side of Praha that they wouldn’t have seen othewise–beer, opera, large portions of meat and all.

Well, a very welcome - if completely foreign, but I’m learning slowly - keyboard is in front of me, and I could only be happier if Chris was on google chat, but you guys probably don’t need to be hearing about that…

Anyway, Simon and I have been so busy - my feet have passed from sore to numb, I now see how women wear heels all the time, really after about 3 days, you just can’t feel your feet anymore. We§ve done the opera 3 times in Praha, and a concert on one other night, as well as catching a great local Jazz band (4 piece with a freakin’ banjo! it was awesome!)

The train ride to Brno was gorgeous, I have to admit, being in the city is hard for me to get used to on a vacation. Seeing (and hearing and smelling) green was so welcome! This is a very interesting city aesthetically. It could easily be described as ugly, since it is old and run down (it hasn’t benifited from the government grants that Praha has for restoration after the communist let it detiriorate) and there is evidence of it’s industrious nature with large smoke stacks reminiscent of (what I picture as) nuclear power facilities. After all, it is a very important industrial city for CR.

We ended up using an accomodation service when we arrived, and it turns out it is a private home! It has a BATHTUB!! OMG!! I’m buying bubble bath after this. The balcony (yes, you heard right) looks right onto the old town square, but unfourtunately it is under construction, so it’s not as great of a view as it could be. Still. It’s pretty swank. It’s not Mendel’s Monestary (it is only open as a hostel from July to September), but hey, I’ll take it. That is the claim to fame for Brno - this is where the famous geneticist did all his reaserch, just a block from the town square.

Simon got to witness something as amazing as Mendel’s reaserch: I, Charlotte, looked in a shop window found a dress I’ve been looking for all year, tried it on, it fit, I bought it, and I left the store. Can you believe it???? I’m amazed too. On a slightly sideways note, I think this is where I am going to do all my shopping. I’ve already found a pair of shoes……..yeah for VISA!

OK, now that I’ve inundated you, I’ll let your eyes rest. Simon and I are going to the Ballet tomorrow night, we will see Swan Lake. Apparently Praha isn’t the only Czech city that enjoys the arts. I suppose this was the capital of Moravia at one point, and they had to have a Divaldo as well…..

Na Schledanou!

Eight!

We got tickets to the Ballet an hour or so ago, and they cost 160Ck each. Crazy,eh? that is like 8 bucks. We are killing a little time here before we go to the Krypt just down the street, which is as it seems, but all the graves are open(?) wierd, and apparently it is quite morbid. I’m looking forward to it. I’ll take a picture and post it. I’ve just figured out where the usb port is.

We tried to get Simon a three piece suit, but the place we were in didn’t have one that fit, and all the stores here close at noon on Saturdays. Bah. No shoppping in Brno for me, I guess.

Well, I am successful in getting souveniers for those I care about, and Chris. For everyone, I either have it bought, or I know exactly where to get it. I just need to find myself that darned tablecloth…The ones I’ve looked at were over 100 dollars at least. I sure hope you guys buying them for me in other countries are not even coming close to that in price. And if so, jeez! thanks sooooo much! But I might have to limit it to just countries I’ve been to to avoid the guilt factor.

The train station here is much easier to navigate, despite the lack of english in this city, the train station is much better for english speakers than the one in Praha. We’re off to Krakow tomorrw. If anything else, I’m just looking forward to the train ride. It’s 6 hours of countryside bliss.

The ballet last night was fantastic. There was whirling and twirling, hopping and skipping, loving and fighting. Honestly, it was way more exciting and… easy to follow than I would have expected. Granted, I had read the synopsis beforehand, but still.

We’re east of Praha, and despite being in the old Moravian capital of Brno, the amount of english around us has dropped quite significantly. We’re in the touristy downtown (significantly less so than Praha’s), but even so it’s a bit of a crapshoot to find someone who speaks english. This is why it’s somewhat impressive that I happened to turn the charm onto who I imagine is one of the few fluent english speakers. The upshot is that I spent a very pleasant evening visiting and wandering with her last night, and I’m supposed to give her a call when we come back through this way.

And now, on to Poland.

I’ve got a few Crypt pictures for you:)

And one of noon bells ringing at 11….

Not that any of that will mean anything to you, but I think it’s pretty cool.

So we had a fantastic time last night, we met up with Tullia (Tulia?) and her sister and her brother in law and had some drinks at a cave bar. It was totally awesome! Unfourtunately the couple we had met on the train did not join us, they were a lot of fun, and would have fit right in, I think. I can see why Simon is so fond of her, she is a pretty great gal, and smart and cute. Her sister and brother in law are also a lot of fun, there was much laughing, drinking and toasting going around. Tullia and I even repeatedly toasted the inventer of the vibrator. It was quite funny.

Today I spent shopping pretty much, and am going to go do some more, if I can, it’s getting kind of late for that I think, but hey, I”ll try untill I can’t try no more! Stuff is reasonably cheap here, so I can come home with lots. (if I have the room)

We’re in Terchová, a small and lovely town in the Slovak mountains. Getting here was quite an adventure.

 We left Krakow at 0710 on a direct train to Žilina, which promply populated itself with pre-(and a few post-)pubescent Polish children. I’m pretty sure that there’s a picture of me trying to sleep on some kid’s camera phone. There was one pointed at me when I opened my eyes, and there was quite a bit of giggling.

 We arrived in a village on the polish side when all of a sudden the train is emptied of these kids. Breathing a sigh of relief, we assume that the rest of the trip will be quieter–however, we are quickly told by the ticket man something along the lines of us having to switch to one of four buses that are sitting outside. Apparently the trains were broken, or so we were able to gather in our fractured polish. A short twisty bus ride later, we’re shunted off the bus in Zwardoń, a Polish border town where we were both told to wait for a bus that would take us to our destination, and that we should get on the train that was waiting there for us.

 After that, the trip was relatively straightforward, and all affairs aside, we weren’t even very late into Žilina–which I might add is a surprisingly lovely city–before we hopped a short local bus out to where we’re sitting now.

 Dad, you’d love it here.

Anyhow, as for Krakow, it was by far the most social part of the trip as of yet. Between meeting a Greek couple on the train, running into Tullia at the train station and spending a couple evenings visiting (and drinking!) with the (neé) Dymarz sisters and Curtis, and sharing dinner with an elderly couple from Ontario, we spent far more time in Poland with other folks. It was, all in all, quite a nice side-tour.

This is a super cute little town right in the Mala Ftara mountains. (I think I got that right) It´s about 35km from a city called žilina. žilina is apparently one of the hubs of Slovakian transport, as it is right on the borders of CR, Poland and Slovakia. We were really only in the town for lunch before we took the bus to this little púlace, but we intend on staying there for a few nights after here. From there, we hope to hike out to an abandoned castle. Apparently in žilina, the hotel astoria (their poshest place) is about 100CAD equivalent. We might just do that as a little treat.

This morning after coffee and this fantastic dish that is the local specialty, Simon and I started on our way to explore town, and heard some loud music and saw some dancing in the distance. We decided to explore what the fuss was all about, and happened upon this live band playing in the local schoolyard. We watched from the outskirts for a few minuites before a teacher approached us and told us to go in to watch if we would like. So, we did. All the school kids loved these guys, and were singing along. Simon and I coined the term “Folk Metal” for the genre of music. I was curious about the mini festival, so I approached what looked like a roadie (she certainly wasn´t a teacher) and asked if she spoke english. She and her friend immediately said no and ran to get someone who did.

We ended up chatting with two people, the man speaking more clearly and understanding more than the woman, and we got that there was a children´s festival on the 1st, and this was their celebration for it. The band´s name was Arsen and they are local. They have a show in Chicago some time in the fall I think. They were totally awesome! We took some pictures, and I got a quick video (thank God for a 1Gig card!).

The beer here is always less than a dollar. This is probably the biggest touristy area, and is thus expensive. Crazy,eh?

Cajmin and I were getting very silly last night. We started spelling our names Čheskie style. I´m Šár. He’s Cajmin. I don’t think it’s the same in Slovak, but hey, what can you do.

Today C. and I are going to hike out to the abandoned castle that is outside of Źilina in Strečna. It’s about a 14 min bus ride, then a 3 hour walk or something like that.

This is what I saw last night

This is what it really looks like

This is a bizarre outdoor chrch, the mountains are heavily forested, so it´s not much to look at in pictures

And this is that awsome band

I am
One
Smart
Monkey

I found a slovak cookbook, and I was totally right just by taste how to make that Terchová dish.

Cajmin and I are very proud of ourselves for successfully navigating bus and train systems here where we know no language really, and lafter leaving Praha, there really is no english speaking, unless (according to that school teacher) you talk to kids (and I guess in fairness, some ‘youngsters’). We are splitting up today, I think I mentioned that, but just for a day or two.

On our freaking awsome walk, we took a video with my boobycam, which you guys can all see if you don’t mind, it’s quite funny, we think. To answer your question, Mir, we found the castles with a little of both, we just sort of read about it in LP, but I didn’t think it was this close, and then we picked up a local hiking guide and found it in there. I’m sure the pictures won’t do it justice, but well, you’ll have to come with me if you want to see it. I’m too scared of heights to have seen all of it, but Cajmin got a lot out of it, and I’l lget his pictures as well as mine.

I discovered yesterday that I could have been taking videos this whole time, since I ha(d) room for over 7 hours on my plam pilot, and there were things I would have liked to have videoed, but oh well, memories will have to suffice. Now that I know, though, I can show you some stuff. The boobycam is a little hard to watch since the pixel amt is too small and there is as a result a lot of lag, but you’ll get the picture. hehe.

So last night Šár and I decided to catch some local theatre… the lady at the hotel told us that there would be a play about some local hero that we would likely never have heard of… Janišek. The guy from Terchová. So of couse we went! Who cares if we wouldn’t understand, it’s not like we knew what the hell was going on in any of the Operas, let alone the English one.

 Lucky us, it turned out to be a Rock musical, so even though the dialog was incomprehensible, the music was really good. But it gets even better. Šár noticed sooner than I did, but the actor who played Janišek was… the singer from the band Arzén. Seriously. So we got to see him two days in a row! The musical was great (and I sort of understood the second half), and so today I ended up buying a best-of CD from Arzén. Tragically, they were out of CDs from the actual play. However, when I get back to Canada, I’m totally going to track down a copy to order online.

Today has been filled with problems. But, alas, I got here. Apparently I am sleeping in the last bed in this place. Good thing I reserved. And, I paid twice the price for my train ticket here. Good thing it was still oly 40 bucks total.

Well, to answer Chris’ question more publicly, Cajmin tried to get it on with the Brno girl last night, and I’m suspicious it did not go as planned, but I guess we will find out soon enough….:) I know I’ve got a big mouth!

I did a bunch of shopping this morning, and I bought a shower present for a friend of mine that is getting married as soon as I get back. I’ve recently found out that we are not to bring presents, so I’ve now got this beautiful Bohemian Crystal liquor set, and no one to give it to. I’m not sure if I should keep it for myself, or if I should give it to her anyway. I guess I’ll decide on the train.

I got some absolutely fantastic pictures on the bridge last night. I got to watch a lightning storm brew over the amazingly lit castle, if only I could share the visuals, but really, there is no describing it. I’ve got a picture of the castle lit up, but no lightning occured while I shot it. right afterwards, I got the contrasting visual of a large rat run almost across my feet to the sewer drain. Ah, Metropolises(ies?)

I’m going to do more shopping….:)

I had an awsome conversation over breakfast this morning with a girl who just spent 1 month in Romania. I AM SO GOING! ugh, you’d never guess how beautiful and wonderful that country is. I think it may be my next destination, and I didn’t know this, but I already speak one of it’s official languages. Is February too soon to travel again?

I’ve got all the things I need, even the tablecloth, which cost me five bucks. oooh.

We saw more fantastic opera last night, and our collective date was a proffesional opera singer, Doctor Doktor. So we got an interesting bit of… class?? I’m not sure how to put it. And tonight, we are getting the last one in, and it’s supposed to be the best we will see here, Carmen. I’m thinning out my supplies, giving up showering so I have more room for stuff, since I don’t want to buy an other bag if I don’t have to.

Well, this will be my second last post… I’m trying not to spend 200$ on glasses……

We’re sitting in Frankfurt, having just arrived via plane, train and automobile. A late night and an early start later, we’re almost prepared to head back home. Or to sleep. One or the other.

Two more nights of opera later (with a semi-professional guide for good measure) culminating in a fantastic performance of Carmen, the above quoted late night and early morning…

It has been a blast though. The latter part of the trip (beginning around Brno or Krakow) has been by far the most memorable, and I could easily see myself wanting to skip my merry way back here. You know, rent a flat in Žilina (or surrounding area) to stow gear at, and then just spend week or half-week long trips hiking through the mountains of Moravia. I could stand that. Anyone else up for it in a few years?

In so many more ways than one. We watched our last opera in Praha last night. We stayed out far too late, and got the diva drunk enough to sing in the bar (holy shit it was loud but beautiful) and of course, we are out of the Czech Republic. So Cajmin and I are going on a collective of about 3 or 4 hours sleep, but the company was totally worth it, as was the deep fried cheese in Simon`s case, I`m sure. “I`ve Never“ is a totally fun drinking game. You learn so much about your drinking mates!

Yesterday in my travells, I dazzled one of the local boys with my fantastic wit (well, it`s only a letter or two off) and beautiful smile. As I was buying a nice pressie for a certain someone, I totally got hit on by one of the local boys. Good thing he wasn`t as cute as the boys in Poland, cause I might have been in trouble! (definitely the hottest boys in the 4 countries) I poitely and with a ridiculous girlish giggle declined the offer for a date later that night, and (half) ran blushing out of the store.

*NB* please do not burst my bubble about european boys asking everyone out, I am in my own fantasy world here…

So, it`s Frankfurt and the world cup, and Cajmin and I are debating weather or not Partying is going to ensue tonight. I know it will around us, but I`m not sure if we will (can) participate. I know I need a change of clothes, and a bath, and to wash my laundry. All my undies are good, but I`m afraid the rest has been neglected. The joys of travelling, I guess.

I`m not sure what else to say, but I can`t wait to show all my pictures, and to talk with all my hommies, and to touch another human being. Three weeks is a lot without so much as a pat on the shoulder. It`s also been far too long since I`ve heard the purrrrrr of my kitties.