France 2008

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Wow, is my french rusty. Like, decaying post-communist state rusty.

But it’ll do.

We’re going to France!

So, I’ve spent quite a bit of time (and money!) on the phone the last couple of days, trying to line up the hotel for the main part of our trip. Last night, the last pieces fell in to place; we’re set for transportation, housing, and pretty much everything else, now all we have to do is get there. September 4th can’t get here soon enough!

We’ll be doing a few pretty cool things: An overnight ferry ride on the Mediterranean, a week on Corsican beaches, probably the Moulin Rouge in Paris… All told, it’s going to be something special.

We’ll be updating as we go. Welcome to Morruz2008!

Everything is complete. All we have to do is show up, and drink wine.

One of my coworkers asked me yesterday what I am going to be doing in Corsica. And, well, Nothing really. Tanning my naughty bits, excercising my thighs (bikes and mountains, people. Get your mind(s) out of the gutter!) eating seafood, drinking wine. I suppose if there are sights to see, we’ll see them. If there aren’t, then we’ll snorkle, cliff dive, boat. Speak french to the locals. Read bad corsican poetry. Maybe even good Corsican Poetry.

But most importantly, Love Chris, Of Corse

:)

D-Day

Admittedly, this is not the Normandy invasion — we’re not even going to Normandy — but it is Departure Day.

I’m almost packed, lacking just the step of putting my carryon bag together. I’ve figured out the metro routes we need to take to get to our hotel in Paris, two hops total, and I know the metro station I’m going to. I’ve just tracked down phone numbers and addresses for every hotel we’re staying in, and made notes of them, so I’m set for that. Our cats are taken care of (Thanks, Brady!) and the house is nearly in order.

And I’ve got butterflies the size of houses in my belly. I’ve only been on a trip this long once before, and although I was an adult, I still had my Dad with me, which spared me a lot of worry. This is going to be a blast, don’t get me wrong, but I’m still nervous as hell. I’ll be fine once we’re on the road, and I’ll be even better once we’re on the plane, settled in to the hotel, and enjoying the wine and dine of the City of Lights. But for now, I wait to wake Char up, and I twitch with anticipation.

Paris (Day 1.5)

Well, it’s Paris.

Time is tight (I prepaid for 15 minutes in an internet cafe) so I won’t go into excessive detail here, but it’s pretty nice so far. Expect Char to get detailed to a degree I can’t hope to match, but here’s a scattering of impressions:

I’m insecure about my french, which should not be surprising. I do okay, but the sewer tour pretty much flew over my head, whilst Char followed along pretty well. I’m not bitter, but I wish I’d gotten more out of it.

The food is every bit as good as rumour and legend have it.

We hit Paris in time to catch a well-regarded outdoor market, which provided us with rabbit, cheese, and pain italienne for breakfast. Mmm.

The weather has been windy and humid. The Eiffel tower was high and crowded (and windy!) and a bit too vertiginous for Char.

Tomorrow, we’re going to try for the catacombs, I hope. The Louvre is still on my list.

That’s all I’ve got for now.

I had so many things to say, yet now I don’t know what to say. The pressure of Chris behind me posting of the same experiences, doesn’t help :)

We are here, we are acquainted, and we are comfortable. I think the hardest thing to get used to is that we are not required or expected to know what to do. It’s the norm to let the experts, be it of the restaurant, or market or whatever, make the decision for you. Anyway, to the real thing:

Last night, we were tourists, and went to the Eiffel Tower. It was really windy, and the top of the tower rocks like a 1980’s Singer-Songwriter. Appropriately, I was nauseous, and wanted to get out of there as soon as possible.

We were tired, and had a glass of wine, and went to bed. This morning, we visited the market, and bought La pain, and then Lapin to put on La pain. As well as cheese, and what I require in any country I visit: Strawberries. Breakfast was awesome.

Now, I have to check train schedules, and have moments to do so, so more later, my friends:)

rock on

Chuckles.

Oi, I’m tired

Probably not as tired as Char, but at least I ate today. I’ll leave the details of the day to her, but suffice to say I’m enjoying it. The language is coming a bit more naturally to me, although it’s pretty clear I’m an Anglo here.

Tomorrow it’s off to Rheims, which is bubbly country.

Beers tried so far: Abbey de Leffe (Blonde, belgian, and sweet) and Ch’ti (French, light and crisp). I’m trying to remember these as best I can, because I know I’ll be quizzed on them when I get home.

Hope the cats are doing well.

But I think I forgot to eat today. Sure, I had breakfast, but that was like 10 hours ago. I’m feeling pretty queezy right now, and I think that’s why…

Oh well. So Chris and I did, in fact visit the catacombs, and they were every bit as cool as an ossuary should be and a bit cooler to boot. I liked the winding damp tunnels and all the dark French poetry about death. Some were really touching, some were religious, some were just nihilistic. Not nearly as informative as the Sewer museum, but that could be just because we were self guided. Speaking of which, I was proud of myself yesterday for totally following the tour in French. I was worried in the beginning, since I had no idea what she was getting on about, but I soon realised I just needed a bit to get used to the “accent”. We’ve been making a concerted effort to read all in french, listen and speak (to others) and I think to good effect. We’ve only run into one Surley french man, and many many awesome ones. I even wrote in French in my “diary” this afternoon.

Chris and I just got back from the Mussee D’Eroticisme, and it was OK. The feature exhibit was a Japanese one, which chris and I both agree, is not our kind of thing. I’ve never been able to find anything erotic about Japanese Porn, or whatever, They’ve lost the sensual and gone straight into the extremism of sexuality. There were some neet things to see, and some very well executed pieces. We stood beside the Moulin Rouge, not nearly as grandiose as I’d expected, and Chris had his life threatened on the subway.

I’m all over the place in this entry, mostly because I just can’t focus on anything other than that I want some fine french food. On that note, I will end with a highlight:

Last night, Chris and I went out for dinner, it was good, yes, but I racked my brains for about 35 mintues trying to find a desert I’d enjoyed more that the one that I was served, and I came up short. “Figues Roti” was all it was. Roast Figs, Fig puree, and creme anglais or vanilla creme fraiche, I’m not sure. It was so intensely flavorful and perfect. I don’t know if there was any added sugar at all. Wow. It knocked my socks off. Miam Miam :)

Nebuchadnezzar

Mark, Nat, Char, and Chris rocking out in Epernay

That’s one big freaking bottle! Although we did not drink *that* much champagne last night, We did drink about a Rehoboam of Champage yesterday, starting around noon :) It turned out to be a pretty expensive night, lots of champagne, lots of shellfish (cold raw sea snails, yuk!) and missing the last train: 70Euros for a cab from the equivalent of Leduc to our house. Ouch. But well worth it all, in my opinion.

The Champagne making process and some other things were well learned and appreciated, the samples at the ends of the tours were nice, and each house had its own different flavor of tour, as well as champagne. At one of the houses, I ate some pilfered grapes from outside. The Pinot (noir or meunier, I couldn’t tell) were really good, but the chardonnay were yuk! really small, tart, unripe.

I’d love to recount everything, but I’m distracted, and just really don’t know how to tell of all the super fun times we had. We met some people, laughed, ate, drank.

Reims (pronounced just like France the french way, but without the F. wierd, eh?) Is a beautiful town, 120 000 people live there, and beacause it’s “small” the streets are wide and you can see the beautiful majesty of the French architecture for a good 200 meters at a time, something that you can’t do in Paris, or even in Prague. It’s a place where they’d crowned kings from the mid 5th century, so it’s well kept, lots of gorgeous monuments etc. Just an all around beautiful place to be.

So, much like Char’s post below, this one is from Reims, at a local cybercafe. Not a cheap hobby, this mobile internet thing…

Anyway, I’m not going to cover the same ground as she did, nor in fact am I going to bother with a lot of detail at all; I’m tired (again!) and I have only one thing to add (and that’s for Amy): Gargoyles!

Gargoyles in Reims

So, we made it to the island! So far, we’ve walked around, snorkled a bit off the beach, and ate. We’ve got a pretty sweet little set up here, Right beside the church (I’m not even melting! I think it’s presbyterian, that might have something to do with it) so we always know what time it is :) and a couple markets, a laundrymat, many many restaurants and shops, and of course the beach. Also, it’s like 10 steps from the port, which makes carrying baggage quite easy. The NGV (Navir grande vitesse) is unbelievable! It is so fast, and amazingly smooth (I coule barely tell we were moving, even while I was peeing) and it only takes 2h55min to travel the 180km.

I have to say, I’m not sure if it had anything to do with my mood, or what, but I wasn’t really all that impressed with Nice. It seemed touristy, with little to offer other than bars and beaches. Cab fare was incroyable! 14 Euros for 800m. that’s like 20 bucks! could you imagine? Anyway, I’m left with the feeling that we missed out on something, cause everyone was so enthused about it.

So far the food here is really good, understandably, and the local animals are primarily goats and boars, so my beach towel is one that has the head of an goat superimposed on the map of corsica. It’s delightfully kitch. The cheese and the beer here are amazing, I don’t even know how to describe the cheese, but it’s really good :)

More stories will follow, I’m sure. This place is really laid back, and nice. A good change :)

Calvi is a beautiful town, no question. I can’t provide pictorial evidence of that right now because it’s raining to beat the band and I didn’t bring the camera with me, but take my word for it, it’s spectacular. A 20-km bay with white sand and blue sea, capped on each tip by rocks and on our end a citadel, backed by mountains, and 50% of the time a clear blue sky.

Note the percentage :)

It’s been sporadically nice here; yesterday was alternately 3 hours of rain and 3 hours of sun, today was 6 sun, and rain since, and if the pattern holds I expect clear sky by sundown. Char and I took yesterday to walk to the top of the second hill in from the sea, where there is a small 19th-century fort (the dates on the wall indicate 1849-1852 for construction) that is completely derelict now. We simply walked in through the front gate, and poked into all of the rooms. More pictures will come from that, but suffice to say that there were bits of it that were genuinely creepy. There was a room, third and last in a series of high-ceilinged subterranean chambers, with a window high in the west wall admitting indirect sunlight, with red paint handprints covering the whole wall, around the room, as high as a child could reach. Char has pictures of it, so you can see it later, but I won’t lie: I felt a chill seeing that, and even I know it was just some kids spooking it up.

Today was snorkeling. Both Char and I were fine on the boat, but it turns out we’re both prone to mild seasickness when IN the water. Who knew?

We just sent back our bikes from our daytrip out to one of the more remote beaches. Nice drive, nice beach, and a restaurant on it to boot. I had a salad of in season fruits and veg that was dressed with shrimp mousse and “garnished” with Gambas, or Scampi. (the scampi were bigger than the glass, let alone any of the individual parts of the salad) Then, there was tanning, reading, lazing and more biking. Nice picnic if you ask me.

I think one of the major differences to me (Chris has a different perspective) between this place and other resort towns I’ve been to, is that the beaches have all these restaurants on them, and you can use their beach chairs, or just drink on the beach and not have to be staying at that hotel, or whatever. I kind of like it. Going off in the middle of nowhere, finding a beach, and low and behold, there is a bar there! and it serves haute cuisine!

jerks

I noticed you guys have better weather than we do right now. Hmph.

And now, Provence

Sorry about the long gap; we’ve been busy getting from there to here, as tends to happen when your main mode of transportation is on a schedule. “There” in this case was the lovely oceanside town of Calvi, and “Here” is, well, you can see:

Something I took away from the Mediterranean Sea is a sense that, amazingly, the tourism advertisements and stories I’ve read about the place really do not do the sea justice. I’m accustomed to an ocean that is dark, cold, and remote; a beauty that can really only be appreciated in the sense that a predator’s grace is admirable. The Mediterranean is different. It’s blue in a thousand shades, all of them gem-like. Each isolated cove brings something new.

We saw three firefighting seaplanes, doing water drills. That was special. We were treated to a flyby by some kind of French military fighter jet, which blew past overhead as we picked our way up to a lighthouse on a rocky promontory. We ate haute cuisine at a dockside bar, and dangled our feet over the edge of the pier, watching hundreds of black fish in the deep, clear blue waters just beside a massive ferry.

And now, Avignon.

There is a palace here, one of the finest examples of a Gothic citadel in Europe, still largely intact, and it is huge. Only pictures can do it justice, but the computer at our hotel — from which I post this — cannot recognize our camera, and therefore I cannot show you these pictures. I’ll probably come back and attach them to this post later, so keep an eye on it.

The food is amazing, the hotel is the nicest we’ve had so far, and the people all seem very friendly. Interestingly, I’ve heard more english in Avignon in one day than in the rest of our trip put together. It seems that this place is a very popular tourist destination, and once I have the pictures up, you’ll see why.

I can’t really add a lot more without those, so I’ll leave off here.

not mine, but beautiful none the less

not mine, but beautiful none the less

So, Avignon has been awesome so far! I think I would reccomend even bypassing all other stops and just staying in Provence for an entire holliday. The town of Arles we visited yesterday still has it’s Coluseum, whose building was finished in the First century, and still it’s “downtown” is from the 5th century. Much of Avignon is the same, but without the coluseum, and in stead the Pallais des Papes, which, I did get guilted into seeing. Damn Chris and his Catholicism rubbing off on me. Well, actually, I like his catholicism rubbing off on me . . .

Ahem, sorry my mother reads this blog, I should be more discreet :)

The Landscape is Beautiful, I’ve taken a million photos, So many, in fact, that I need to upload them so I can take more :/ Last night, there was a fireworks display I will let Chris describe, since I can only describe what it smelled and sounded like, as a late France Day Celebration (it’s about 3 months late, since their day is Col’s Birthday, the 14th of July) But it was some history day. (all museums were free, for example)

Today Chris and I are going to take it easy, window shopping and walking around the town ramparts and taking in the old, old sights. Maybe drink some fine wine, and maybe have a lesson on drinking wine in the Giftshop of the Palais des Papes.

So, we’re in Carcassonne… and yes, we regret turning down Matt’s offer to find us a portable Carcassonne game, which we both wanted to play within the citadel this afternoon whilst drinking sangria in an open air courtyard bar whose walls date back to the Roman occupation.

Did I mention that it’s a really damned big castle? :)

I’m really at a loss here; the end of the trip is coming up, and I’ll admit, I’m looking forward to getting home, but I’m enjoying these last couple days.

Home Sick :(

Well, the countdown has begun. I’m looking forward to comfy clothes and dinner on *my* time. I thought the Roses were bad, eating after 6pm! Also, something other than pastry for breakfast. I know that sounds awful, but it’s true. I’m a protein girl, all the way

Carcassonne has been pretty cool so far, awesome, awesome guest house. everything is big here ;) the room, the scenery, the freaking castle. Wow. Mel and my prep has paid off I think, there have been no complaints in the leg department, and although there have been no Big Up Hill Hikes, I’m still thanking that prep cause I can tell when I walk up that I’m not even close to labouring The Pictures are all going to come up when we arrive home, since we’re only here for a short while longer, and I think this will be the last internet cafe. We were (and are still considering) getting a reservation at a Micheline star restaurant tomorrow, so …maybe we’ll have something (expensive) and excititng to talk about when we get home. we’ll let you know.

Some Highlights:
Truffles, truffles, truffles, truffles. should I do a lottery, or just pick myself? who will it be, who will it be?
In Avignion, I learned what foie gras was: Even I had a twinge of “Meanies!”
And here, in Carcasonne, Chris has schooled me in medieval warfare, very interesting.
I learned what gésiers are: I ordered a “salade au gésiers et artichauds” and, well, I got one of the wierdest salads ever. nice bed of greens, tomatoes, cuces, light dressing, spattering of artichokes, and 2 chickens worth of extra crispy super hot hearts and kidneys.
I had a dream so bad, my hair turned white. (litterally just one of them)
Watched a frenchman laugh at an englishman who tried to buy worschestershire sauce at his shop.
Saw a muskrat so big I thought it was a Beaver
Stepped in Dog shit
Watched a great game of Bocci Ball
Photographed a Nuclear Power Plant
Made out in a 2 thousand year old structure at least once
Went through a river lock twice
Watched a mini lock once
Bought Yarn :)

Last Post

I popped down to the internet cafe in Paris whilst Char sleeps in a bit to do this last bit of postery. We’re heading off to the airport in two hours, starting the last, longest, and least pleasant leg of the vacation — the ten-hour flight and 3.5-hour drive home.

We’ll see you all over the next little while, probably in small doses because we’re gonna be wiped right out :)

Coda

As I write this, Fritz is enthusiastically groping my wrist, indicating to me in no uncertain terms that I should not be allowed to leave him ever again.

I didn’t plan to do another post, but today (yesterday) bears comment.

So, it turns out that our flight from Paris to Calgary was moved up three hours.

I’ll let that one sink in…

There we are, about to check in our bags, and we’re told that our plane is literally taking off right now. Notable absences on this plane include… US. Both Char and I just about drop to the ground right there, but since we’re persons of resource and grace, we instead make our way to the airline ticket counter, in the hopes of rearranging our travel. Did you know that Air Transat only makes one flight per week to Calgary from Paris? You do now!

We are informed that, if we pay a 40 euro fee each, we might be fortunate enough to catch their 15:10 flight to Toronto, but other than that we’re on our own, so long, see ya, read the fine print next time… So, we do this, ending up as standby passengers numbers three and four on the flight. And now, two hours of nerve-wracking waiting, hoping that the flight doesn’t fill up. Char, in the interim, checks up on the cost of the next Air Canada or Air France flights, and determines that — if we don’t make this standby flight — we will be on the hook for $4100 to get home. When she tells me this (about 40 minutes before the standby cutoff) I actually felt faint. I don’t generally do that.

Long story short(er), with 5 slots left on the flight, and 5 minutes til cutoff, a lady and her daughter come up to the checkin and get on our plane. At this point, I have given up on getting home, having decided to send Char if there’s only one seat. Our fellow sufferers, two franco-edmontonians with whom we got along famously, are checked in as standbys one and two… and then Char and I are called up to check in. At which point I concealed tears of relief behind my otherwise unnecessary sunglasses… and we ran to the plane.

The rest of the trip was routine, other than spending two extra hours on a plane, two extra hours in an airport, and arriving home about an hour and a half ago, hoping to pass right out… and failing. So, this coda is brought to you by my insomnia.

i figured I’d go through and do a highlight reel, since all you got was random mumblings of tired folk, likely just at the internet shop to kill time in waiting for something else :)

Paris:
We started at the Eiffle tower, Wow. Big steel thing. This is a quote from my personal travel log:

“While in the historical part of the Musee des Egouts, {sewer museum} there was a mural pained of Jean Valjean carrying Marius, like in the book, so I made Chris take a picture of me in front of it. There was a couple checking us out, since we were making silly faces, animated commentary, and getting the settings on the camera just right. Since we were paying so much attention to it, they went over, and read the plaque describing the scene. The look on their faces and the shrug they both gave each other made it clear that they just didn’t get it. I got a good chuckle out of that. I know how it feels to check something out because peole around you are making a big deal out of it only to just not get it. See: Eiffle tower. Is it litterally just a tall monument whose only signigicance is it’s status as a tourist attraction ?!?”

She is quite pretty, though

Arty Eiffel shot 2

The next day, of course, we checked out the sewer museum, from which the last quote came. It is arguably the only reason I’d ever gotten to step foot in Paris, so it’s likely the reason that this trip was made. It was worth it. I enjoyed it, saw the first rat of my life. I’d felt one run over my foot in Prague, and saw it’s tail, but that was barely the whole animal. If you squint, you can see it in this picture:

I think I saw a sewer rat!

To continue on our underground theme, Chris and I visited the Catacombs. It was at one time I rock quarry, which they took too much rock out of, and the city started sinking in some parts, so they stopped mining, and since at the same time, they were having problems with the cemetaries being over full and starting to smell, they turned it into a giant undergroung ossuary. It was damp, winding, earthy, creepy and just plain wonderful.

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Now, we’ve seen where Napolean was born, and entombed:

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And where Christophe Colombe was born and entombed. (Both born in Corsica, and Nap entombed at The church of Les Invalides, and Chris entombed in Dominican Republic) Neet, I guess ;)

So, in the Champagne district, we visited both Reims and Epernay. Epernay is the closest to the birthplace of champagne by Dom Perignon, who, once he discovered his masterpiece, apparently (probably quite drunkenly) ran up the streets yelling: Quick my brothers, come! I’m drinking the stars! Now, that described it well, me thinks.

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We learned a wonderful amount about champagne, about its creation, and how truly different every house is in taste, and in technique, to their ability of course, since the process is so meticulously controlled. And, most importantly, drank a respectable amount of champagne. Mom, if you are reading this: No silly flip flops for me. :)

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Sur le pont D’Avignon, on y danse, on y danse

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Well, Avignon was a place of wonder, beauty and food. Oh God the Food. The City is rich with history, art, and FOOD. Chris and I spent 3 wonderful days cruising, walking, wondering, and laughing. I made it through the Palais de Papes without melting, but not without offending someone ;). We oogled gargoyles, shot each other with corks projected from crossbows, checked out the secret coffers of the Renegade Popes. Every time we passed an alcove whose statue had been taken out, I took the opportunity to insert a statue of Notre Dame de Drama Queens

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We took a cruise to Arles, which takes about 2 3/4 hours, so we ate at a wonderfully leisurely pace on the way there, cruised around arles fro a few hours, Made out in a structure almost as old as Jesus Christ (it was finished about 100 years after his death) And was generrally awed at how people still lived and thrived in the modern way in homes that are 1500 years old. It’s the case in Avignon as well, and probably much of Provence, but we had just learned that on our super cheesy tourist train ride

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We laughed at how awesome Old guys are, especially when they are competitive

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And marvelled at the scenery. Much of Provence is still very religious, so it was a bit of a shame being there on a Sunday and Monday, since that is the weekend, and not in the party sense. They close everything down. Probably good for my pocket book, cause I was in the mood to shop, and good for our bakcs, since we were a bit tight on the back pack space.

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Avignon was beautiful and fun and the closest to comfortable I reached in France. Best done again in the future but only if we are renting an appartment. Cooking is a must. Freedom to roam the countryside in a car would have made 3 weeks based out of there seem short.

All in all, the trip was fun. Chris and I had a truly wonderful time together. France did not wow me like any other place I’d been, or leave me with any really potent memories like other trips I’ve taken, and I’d likely not go back, but if I had to do it again, I would wholeheartedly. I loved the time with Chris. I love that we made what we did of it. I love that despite where I am and how I feel, I’m comfortable with him, and we can make the most of any given experience, whatever the expectations are.